Wednesday, 22 September 2010


I think iv spoken of this before at some time in this blog! But I must rave and rant about the c limbing shoe that is the speedster from sportiva, when I first got a hold of this shoe I had a quick play and thought that this is a shoe that has a narrow field of play ie steep.
Well hear I am in the land of the steep and tufa Rodellar and I must say. That I was bob on with my summery the way the speedster makes you use your feet difrantly with the funky Rand turns your feet into little claws you push pull and hook your way up climbs with them I can only offer as everdence of this in my climbing of resant times, looking back though my score card all my hardest climbs have been done in the speedster, from red pointing 8b to on sighting 8a's the speedster has come up trumps.

Tuesday, 14 September 2010

last legg

well hear we are on the last leg of the trip Rodellar,
after looking at a crag on the way hear the boys and girls thought fuck it might just as well get on it at up and come to the crag of crags. we got hear in the dark so armed witha torch we went to find a spot in the campsite then got our heads down for the night.
so an lazy morn and a few coffees we headed you the valley the only thing on mikes and mine mind was getting back on les chacals an 8b i looked at last year but went away with the route unclimbed so i went up to get the draws in and i was in for a shock it was so much harder than remember there's no way i can get up this!
so as a look i went for a point and as i expected came up short, falling off the mid crux so working it more i then headed to the top.
mike was in the same place as me with the crux stopping him as well so after a rest and waiting for the sun to go behind the hill i pulled back on, by some luck of some sort i got though the crux into the first rest this might be game on last year iwas falling just one move short of a jug can i make it this time. well the rest is history i got to the move and i said to myself don't PANIC slow down and do it right and the jug was in my grasp get in a few more moves and glory and a big jump off from the chains.

Saturday, 11 September 2010

Tres ponts

Tres ponts been hear just over a week, I just so love this crag short walk in and a nice relaxing feel always a few folk around to watch climb and get the numbers on the harder routes also saw daila send the crag 8b in fine stile it looked like she was just warming up the girl can crush, for me tho some on sighting in the 7 grade and pointing the 8's one of witch An 8a that took me three days to point I later found out that a hold has broken and in the new topo it now gets 8a+ so feel a bit better about it taking so long to send.
From hear With mike and T dog coming down from france and mike showing me the way I stepped up the game with flashing another 8a mite modens, getting the next one second point Rauxa, and first redpoint of a 8a+ Carbassa pel tap de bassa