Thursday, 30 July 2009

Well things seam to be coming together after a trip down to Ansteys cove in Devon a sweet sport climbing spot on the south coast, on a route called Tupance a route i first tried it must be three or four years ago where I made it must be said good progress on that day so long ago only not doing one move on my working sesh.
Well three years on iv done the move! With it I think I can climb the route I might have to spend some time playing on it but it will be done.
wile down in the west I headed to Dartmoor for a spot of van camping followed by an early wake up call coming from a Dartmoor pony popping his head in the open door to say hello I called him Tom!

From my early start I went up to Hound tor to do a bit of soloing before my coaching clients turned up for there days climbing on the perfect granit of the moor in the wind and sun, with a debrief over a pint at the Rugglestone in Wideacome in the moor. Back on the road it’s off to Portland to meet up with Lisa for her first climbing day outside in seven weeks! With her call on climbing venues she had us headed to Blacknor north and a redpoint she looked at all those weeks ago. Working the moves on toprope a few times to get her eye back in she pulls on for the lead.
Mean wile mike and myself on another long term project of mine Freaky Ralph a route witch starts with a nice 7a+ and finishes with a slaby 7a with a spicy V7 splitting the two, a new set of numbers witch include a slap to a poorer hold then a flick to the slide pull proper making the crux a different story the game was on, so two go’s down and finding out that I do need to move my foot before the slap I just had to step up one more time and sure enough after watching Mike fall off the slab sent it on my next run.

Wednesday, 15 July 2009


Well not a bad camping spot on my working road tour, I came across this spot(Wardour Castle) when driving towards Gillingham Dorset a nice castle in the dorset hills i can recommend popping in if your in the area! best to do early morning before they open.