As I'm sure some of you who know me might of heard me utter in the past " well I wasn't expecting that" And again I bring this out of the bag yet again.
Down at ansteys cove with a Bristol and local team I did my usual warm up trav under the empire wall warming up the arms and fingers, it then set abut putting the draws in my project an 8b+ called Poppy a route iv wanted to climb for a few years.
Although the crag was dry and not in to bad a nic, on my first go up it took me quite a few try's to stick the crux move a funky foot compress pinch roll move to a shocking hold you have to kind of sidepull pinch, then your foot gos on and a flick sees you at an ok pinch to clip from. So not overly inspired I came back to the floor to rest ready for a redpoint attempt.
So pulling on it started all ok you start up cider soak for two clips then break left, up to this it was all flow and chill then nerves set in and my climbing went to shit getting holds wrong my healhook not sat properly so on and such forth. thinking this was a throwaway go I kept on going so I could have another look at the crux move thinking I'd never get up on the roll to fiddle the sidepull into my grasp. So now time for my catchphrase! not caring or trying overly much taking the self imposed pressure out of the equation I found not only the hold but found it useable with a foot move I was on the pinch and clipping, game on can I do this ? With only five moves to the chains I took a breath and went for it, move one a missive flick to an undercut this move I find hard when working it but the power was flowing and it felt easy next up is a foot shuffle clip and a another big move to a crimp followed by bump to a pocket, feet again, other hand to the crimp foot up and jump
my first 8b+ well happy, that was yesterday I was down there again today steped left and nearly did another one but I think a rest day is in order then maybe just maybe.
