Friday, 27 February 2009


Well just back from the Blanca with a nice stay at the Orange House with Gaz P, Shauna C and charlie E.

The one overriding feeling is that i need to get fitter, not just a bit fitter tho i need large amount of fitness i can hang on for a point or two but as for onsighting its just another game.

Saying that though not a bad trip considering that be for going out the years tally of routes was at a hedonistic tally of about 10 climbs on the rock stuff! The first day was just a case of doing a few easy routes in the sun as id not slept much and was recovering from setting at the Academy the day be for, Then the climbing started proper getting out of the sun and into the shade of caves and the dark of north, With Crags the likes of Wildside, El Bov and Forada.
the ascent of the week has to go to Shauna on climbing her first 8a in the shape of Watermark at Wildside sella working the climb with Gaz's sequence of putting your thumb in a whole on crux move we went for our first redpoint trys, i managed to pull though the crux and on up past the easier climbing to the chains bricking it on the easy ground all the way hoping i wouldn't mess it up. Shauna tho after getting her thumb in on the action missed her foot sequence and peeled off the crux.
So on to day two of redpoint land she worked up the route sorting the numbers and getting warm, so second point! getting past the crux surely its in the bag but no dam footwork. So round three and guess what yep that's right feet again not such a problem on round four with a picture perfect ascent, a sweet effort as 7c was her hardest climb up to this, i'd recommend not sitting out on those dancing lessons from now on sort out dem feet.

With a few more days of trip left i made short work on another 8a/8a+ at Forada and finished up climbing a long standing project for me a 7b+ at Wildside i was working ten years ago!

Wednesday, 11 February 2009

Out of the box

Well the day started well waking up in Clifton Bristol overlooking the bridge, After a big Bowl of porridge on to the climbing Academy for a spot of coaching for the uni climbing team and coffee on tap.
Well with the weather shinning and work Finished the outdoors was calling and a few hours later i found myself on Dartmoor! After getting a bit stuck getting into the car park at bonehill i pulled on my new climbing shoes the La Sportiva miura VS's, i can safely say that they performed beyond compare on the small granite crystals making the climbs of my usual circuit a path, not so good on the snow but cant have every thing!

Snow+Sun on the Moor from Gavin Symonds on Vimeo.