tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24577451372182910522024-03-21T15:28:52.432-07:00Gavin SymondsAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.comBlogger45125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-43026398227639086002013-04-04T04:34:00.001-07:002013-04-04T04:34:25.777-07:00Beginnings <p> A scary realisation came to me resonantly and that was the fact that iv not been on a climbing trip for about a year, this only means two things iv Been working way to much over the last year and the van breaking down last September ment that iv just not been getting out.</p>
<p>So at the moment me and pip are sat on the train in-between both of these as iv got a new van and am going to pick it up with its new shinny poptop roof on it so trips a plenty needed. The other middle is iv just got back from siurana in Spain, and on the weekend I'm off to Sicily for ten days, now the problem with not climbing much and working loads is that you have no fitness and movement on rock is clunky and just doesn't flow.</p>
<p>So Siurana was just a foot in the water to see where I was route climbing wise it was a bitter pill to take as iv dropped down to punter level, the last time I climbed was in Kalymnos last year and i was onsighting 7c+/8a now 7b feels like the living end. Bt she's a fast ladder to climb as by the end of the week idid a 7c+ redpoint and she felt fine I know this is not onsight but movement feels better and I know fitness is there just needs to be slapped around a bit.</p>
<p> </p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G6OdosikhPo/UV1lHmMemKI/AAAAAAAAAW4/wJPE3acHams/s2048/Photo%25252030%252520Mar%2525202013%25252011%25253A54.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G6OdosikhPo/UV1lHmMemKI/AAAAAAAAAW4/wJPE3acHams/s500/Photo%25252030%252520Mar%2525202013%25252011%25253A54.jpg" id="blogsy-1365075265790.9854" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="750"></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WvkT0kxzgbQ/UV1lPTgLYUI/AAAAAAAAAXA/oJ32D19ih_c/s2048/Photo%25252030%252520Mar%2525202013%25252012%25253A34.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WvkT0kxzgbQ/UV1lPTgLYUI/AAAAAAAAAXA/oJ32D19ih_c/s500/Photo%25252030%252520Mar%2525202013%25252012%25253A34.jpg" id="blogsy-1365075265755.2017" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="750" alt=""></a></div>
<p> So last year as a no blog year asi had nothing on the climbing front to report this year I feel is the year for great things, ill keep you posted </p>
<p>Gav</p>
<p> </p><div style="text-align: right; font-size: small; clear: both;" id="blogsy_footer"><a href="http://blogsyapp.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://blogsyapp.com/images/blogsy_footer_icon.png" alt="Posted with Blogsy" style="vertical-align: middle; margin-right: 5px;" width="20" height="20" />Posted with Blogsy</a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-87375310128818007852012-03-21T12:57:00.001-07:002012-03-21T12:57:46.009-07:00Poppy<p>As I'm sure some of you who know me might of heard me utter in the past " well I wasn't expecting that" And again I bring this out of the bag yet again.</p><p>Down at ansteys cove with a Bristol and local team I did my usual warm up trav under the empire wall warming up the arms and fingers, it then set abut putting the draws in my project an 8b+ called Poppy a route iv wanted to climb for a few years. </p><p>Although the crag was dry and not in to bad a nic, on my first go up it took me quite a few try's to stick the crux move a funky foot compress pinch roll move to a shocking hold you have to kind of sidepull pinch, then your foot gos on and a flick sees you at an ok pinch to clip from. So not overly inspired I came back to the floor to rest ready for a redpoint attempt.</p><p>So pulling on it started all ok you start up cider soak for two clips then break left, up to this it was all flow and chill then nerves set in and my climbing went to shit getting holds wrong my healhook not sat properly so on and such forth. thinking this was a throwaway go I kept on going so I could have another look at the crux move thinking I'd never get up on the roll to fiddle the sidepull into my grasp. So now time for my catchphrase! not caring or trying overly much taking the self imposed pressure out of the equation I found not only the hold but found it useable with a foot move I was on the pinch and clipping, game on can I do this ? With only five moves to the chains I took a breath and went for it, move one a missive flick to an undercut this move I find hard when working it but the power was flowing and it felt easy next up is a foot shuffle clip and a another big move to a crimp followed by bump to a pocket, feet again, other hand to the crimp foot up and jump </p><p> </p><p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1i41DEWM_sA/T2ohiDk8MwI/AAAAAAAAAVw/qSsMATs5RX4/s500/Photo%25252021%252520Mar%2525202012%25252016%25253A44.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1i41DEWM_sA/T2ohiDk8MwI/AAAAAAAAAVw/qSsMATs5RX4/s500/Photo%25252021%252520Mar%2525202012%25252016%25253A44.jpg" id="blogsy-1332359833826.1604" class="aligncenter" alt="" width="500" height="375"></a></div><p> my first 8b+ well happy, that was yesterday I was down there again today steped left and nearly did another one but I think a rest day is in order then maybe just maybe.</p><p> </p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-65062092422725933672012-03-08T01:10:00.001-08:002012-03-08T01:10:44.794-08:00Feb/march<p> Progress is on the cards, iv put aside that silly work thing again and been getting out and about with a focus on ansteys in Devon on a route iv wanted to to for a wile now so iv slapped myself around the face and told myself to pull my finger out and get it done. Easily said but for this one iv got to but effort in I.e if got to train and get better at this climbing thing something iv not really done before. </p><p>Up till now all the routes iv done iv done quickly with out really trying and this route (poppy) has got a move I can only just do from the hang so iv got to get stronger so I can get to it fresh, this feeling is slowly coming along it feels better every time I go down and have a play.</p><p> More motivation as if I need it is pip as she is getting more mobile around crags and danger I now have two options one is to take her for a morning walk , or go climbing so she can get a walk that way. Easy to work that one out me thinks.</p><p>So what now, the next few weeks hold a little bit of the indoors in the shape of the CWIF followed by a trip to Madrid to set a comp out there, the pressure is on as well as the starting List has names like woods and Robinson in it ! I'll get back to on how it gos. </p><p> </p><p> </p>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-18161624177817980972011-12-20T07:36:00.001-08:002011-12-20T07:36:12.005-08:00Pip<div>Well I new turn of events has come around, in the shape of a pip a 12 week old cocker spaniel she's been her a few days now and settling in nicely.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tWtKfqVfRSs/TvCpo7qagqI/AAAAAAAAAU0/Ye6g9w8ezsg/Photo%25252011%252520Dec%2525202011%25252014%25253A44.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tWtKfqVfRSs/TvCpo7qagqI/AAAAAAAAAU0/Ye6g9w8ezsg/s645/Photo%25252011%252520Dec%2525202011%25252014%25253A44.jpg" id="blogsy-1324395278215.7966" class="aligncenter" width="645" height="484" alt=""></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">On the way home </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VDnisDDZ5A0/TvCpl7NlEqI/AAAAAAAAAUs/Q-87G-R0-vg/Photo%25252017%252520Dec%2525202011%25252011%25253A25.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title=""><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VDnisDDZ5A0/TvCpl7NlEqI/AAAAAAAAAUs/Q-87G-R0-vg/s500/Photo%25252017%252520Dec%2525202011%25252011%25253A25.jpg" id="blogsy-1324395288350.299" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="669" align="center"></a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-85272574554644251162011-12-20T04:01:00.001-08:002011-12-20T06:31:30.407-08:00The roadWell I must say these last few months have been on the hectic side of things starting off with a dash around the uk putting up christmas decorations all over the place, if you were to plot my corse on a map you'd have a big blob around London with lines going in and out of hear going all over the country, from Manchester, Cardiff and Southampton and many inbetwen. <div>But on this mad maze of lines you'd see a little long line heading south across the channel through France and ending its journey in northern Spain.For hears where Lisa and me were to spend the next week chilling out and climbing, we met up with Gaz and Kate for a few days climbing before we headed to Santa Linya and the massive cave. With a cuppa at Tom and lyn's we set off down the highway to the crag.</div><div> Now as iv not done much climbing outside this year and certainly not much stamina climbing I thought of not pushing the boat out to much and just see of I could get an " easy " route in the bag, at this crag a crag of 9's a easy route comes in at around 8a so I found myself on airline. I'v done the first half before a very nice 7b+ so I went up this to warm up then went bolt to bolt working the moves on the higher part of the route. Well fitness is the key word hear and a 30M route meant I had no margin of error it had to be perfect or it's the soft catch for me, needless to say as is my stile I'd need another day as I rushed the second crux and my foot popped of a smear. But the second day was all that was needed as I sent the line on my second day.With a few days of climbing left I had a little play on a few 8a+s just to make a project list for the fitter future to come I am so motivated to get fit for this year, I can feel good things coming !</div><div><br /></div><div> So now I had to work so a little hop down to Madrid to build a bouldering wall, I'll not say much about this as I'll just boar you with the details but I think it is going to be a fantastic venue when all the finishing touches are done.I can't say it was a work and no play, we might of had a few days out climbing and our hosts showed us around from granite slabs, granite bouldering and sport climbing on the lime we had a nice little time all told we might of got a few laps of karting on as well. </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f-aj_dQZNVw/TvB0nuA4qBI/AAAAAAAAAUU/Ltg4GbUbJMY/Photo%25252016%252520Nov%2525202011%25252011%25253A23.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f-aj_dQZNVw/TvB0nuA4qBI/AAAAAAAAAUU/Ltg4GbUbJMY/s500/Photo%25252016%252520Nov%2525202011%25252011%25253A23.jpg" id="blogsy-1324381606475.704" class="clearleft" width="500" height="375" align="left"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ciLNlw9BOJg/TvB0eGwQxuI/AAAAAAAAAUE/9yZO8mx8Wu4/Photo%25252026%252520Nov%2525202011%25252015%25253A28.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ciLNlw9BOJg/TvB0eGwQxuI/AAAAAAAAAUE/9yZO8mx8Wu4/s500/Photo%25252026%252520Nov%2525202011%25252015%25253A28.jpg" id="blogsy-1324381631852.8442" class="aligncenter" width="500" height="375" align="center"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vrTAfbJN1Bo/TvB0VLEnbRI/AAAAAAAAAT8/sLJhD-eIKeQ/Photo%2525202%252520Dec%2525202011%25252009%25253A13.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vrTAfbJN1Bo/TvB0VLEnbRI/AAAAAAAAAT8/sLJhD-eIKeQ/s650/Photo%2525202%252520Dec%2525202011%25252009%25253A13.jpg" id="blogsy-1324381639982.1758" class="aligncenter" width="650" height="318" align="center" alt=""></a></div><div> With the wall done and thoughts of home we headed north to vist Jon Wad in the basq for my first taste of the climbing there, and I wasn't disappointed as Jon took us to a secret crag around the back of a massive hill not a good walkin but the climbing is the best a massive cave with 100m lines possible and steep.Again I headed to the shorter parts and with a warmup of 7c ( the easiest line at the crag) we had a play on a 8a+ cave route on the first day followed but a less steep but longer 8a on the second witch Andy and myself managed to send Just. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-HrJ-PWOZLTs/TvB0P4iwejI/AAAAAAAAAT0/5--<br />OeoKKUGaFB4/TvB0iWkdWXI/AAAAAAAAAUM/RS1qLb5lpuU/Photo%25252026%252520Nov%2525202011%25252014%25253A38.jpg" target="_blank" style="margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OeoKKUGaFB4/TvB0iWkdWXI/AAAAAAAAAUM/RS1qLb5lpuU/s642/Photo%25252026%252520Nov%2525202011%25252014%25253A38.jpg" id="blogsy-1324381720227.3994" class="aligncenter" width="642" height="856" align="center" alt=""></a></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-36802885596666856412011-10-24T05:08:00.001-07:002011-10-24T05:08:40.573-07:00The lion sleeps tonightWell after climbing shadow walker the next logical step was to then try Dave Pickfords new link out of the top of shadow the lion sleeps, so inlisting the help of pete for belay and photo duties we set off back down to the ched.<br />with perfect conditions and after a coffee I set off up the line warming up on the lower half getting the draws in this then followed by a play on the new moves of the link, this entails from the undercuts of shadow a shuffle right past some small undercuts and crimps to the arate where some nifty heal hooking and hand flicking sees you topping out back at the lower off of shadow. The moves worked and where to clip from sorted I lowered back down for a little rest before going for the point.<br /><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/110057141469594411878/BloggerPictures?authkey=Gv1sRgCJvCk67k-IOrMA#5667029465108354322'><img src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGJ2ASk76k4q48XWcancwBz2FNqjY7gEz0auBv15sfQkN4qTIyydZgdebMTe27HjGxi5YvRijjJilQ6W9agQvNRCq95F-UKicYD92WPazt6hQeVIDblZVlQfDz2uhNo5VwGaZpgZvwc3w/s288/0.jpg' border='0' width='187' height='281' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /> The upper arĂȘte heal flick move<br /><br /><br />Feeling good I pulled the rope and set off, with not to much fuss I found myself under the last slab of shadow on the undercuts feeling happy not to be going up on the small crimps and sidepulls but right instead over to the arĂȘte and the fun climbing there on. <br />So that brings us to the grade and I think from that feeling I had on the headwall it's for me easier than shadow but not much putting it in the hard 8a or easy 8a+ or as the Spanish like to put it 8a/8a+ gota love the slash grade?<br /><br />- Posted from someplace I'm sure<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-16359058512065751192011-10-08T02:17:00.001-07:002011-10-08T02:57:48.954-07:00Black shadowNot a bad month for a what I thought was an unfit fat man wile not getting out climbing much as iv been working quite a bit this summer, but when I have got out those days have been quite good.<br /><br />To pick a couple of those such days the first one taking me down to blackers hole in Dorset and looking up at the very steep infinite gravity a 45 meter very steep 8a+ first done by pete Oxley, this is a route that iv wanted to climb for a few years now and the last time I was on it was two summers ago for a day of playing around but not going for the send as the bottom crux was nice and wet.<br />So on the return I pulled on with new numbers for the start move making it much nicer so I set off working the line, it started ok moving from bolt to bolt breaking the line down, this was working nicely but the links were getting smaller and the rests bigger not a good sign, I'd forgotten just how steep and long this thing is, anyway after the half way point totally pumped my mission for the day was just to get to the top on the dog, red pointing quicky vanishing from my head!<br /><br />So recovered from my shocking working sesh an hour later I thought I'd pull on and see first if I could do the start and if I did just how far I could get. With the start done and in the first rest I was having hopeful thoughts but no way I'd get past the steep roof in the middle into the next rest.<br /> In the next rest still not believing I'd got this far I only had the top third of the route to climb it's only about 7b from here but a hard move off a pinch in the middle of that bit and a sandy rail to finish was what I was up against, under the rail quite pumped and in fear of failing this far up the route the <br />sprint was on, so off I set with what I must say is my best scrabble of all time finding myself with both knees on, the last three draws missed and the finishing jug in front of me just i needed to get a hand to it ! <br />Some how I did and clipping the chains has never felt a nicer.<br /><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/110057141469594411878/BloggerPictures?authkey=Gv1sRgCJvCk67k-IOrMA#5661056212423671714'><img src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuVcsYHIzGmzbw7_WsjjbldeBiWjSimaB5x_HXVj7-Zy09e0UwF5zB4491DOTO_wg3cM2FdvHxzDnUGNDYMGgamf2fe4lmJZTdhP3X4tVKYDHrwtXow8etYUltqgeDoZbzlKSHcYkCwug/s288/2.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='188' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />Fast forwards a few weeks and another few days off cheddar was on the cards and the very cool looking line of shadow walker on lion rock a very thin and technical 8a+ first done by Mat Cox. <br />So to cut a long story short I spent four days on this line with the first two with a wet hold just before the crux. The next day was a silly day of trying the moves in full sun on the hottest October day on record, but saying that all but one move got done and the tan came on a treat.<br />That was Monday and on Thursday approaching in the rain and wind with thermals on I got to thinking how things change ! But in the cold the move I was unable to do in the sun I did first try on my warm up so with little fuss I got the draws in did a few moves to recute the fingers then bang the route was done , but on coming down stripping the draws I got to looking right and my next line to play on the game gos on. <br /><br /><center><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/110057141469594411878/BloggerPictures?authkey=Gv1sRgCJvCk67k-IOrMA#5661058378704407746'><img src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo3luUTeFS_Ydk52ninbQXBCqSDRSK_80JCzwrBEdDivmuFZAFjpiX3s9Se8tsjePqKcjlsHERwuN3UxrqPsNv5KLS6_rzSKfyXPx_RfL8axKMfjTGfhevx7CsYEFS5hZiDo1194m9wac/s288/1.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='188' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br /> <br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-34585919083844695302011-09-13T13:19:00.001-07:002011-09-13T13:19:39.220-07:00Deep water Norway<br />Well as always I'm rubbish at this blogging stuff as iv not done anything in it for an age sorry about not much I can say really but stick with me and I'll see if I can improve!<br />First off is Norway and a little bit of deep water solo in the form of a comp the first comp of this type on the ifsc Callander.<br />The comp was held on a porpoise built wall over a harbour in a town called arundall in the south of Norway, the wall standing at 12 meters looked good and was a dream to climb on, a little steeper would of been nice but still good.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><center><a href='https://picasaweb.google.com/climbergav/BloggerPictures?authkey=Gv1sRgCJvCk67k-IOrMA#5651941501075906914'><img src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpb60o1gLUVcpxyyDLZLplQwHIa41rfJfvWmXzmcknDn-C2B1sJoB_dSxxDGWA6tp9m1-OdGkE73tiNYMKNcvKMm5o2zss-cEo6jIDryzlS42LHax9iaOWxp9LKRLaPZmoKZSd2ckukcw/s288/0.jpg' border='0' width='281' height='186' style='margin:5px'></a></center><br />With steve Mac, Aid Baxter, Ben Heason and me Team uk did fairly well coming in the results in 5/6/9/11 with steve aid me then ben.<br />This was a great event and with a few extras I can't wait till next year.<br /><br /><br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-77353148231903724182011-06-15T06:23:00.000-07:002011-06-15T14:00:03.933-07:00May/June<p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8TLlQMe99_edntfpQv33d74BUKHwAsAcfTNq3dchcx02sIws50kHURvYSnRiyDa3-jFwmYoHS7rJjufs_jyXnF6ch7s_9dSs87fn8AZTDTn6v9N7Tch5JSuXGq4duj5fazOjpdskIlo8/s1600/image-719729.jpeg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8TLlQMe99_edntfpQv33d74BUKHwAsAcfTNq3dchcx02sIws50kHURvYSnRiyDa3-jFwmYoHS7rJjufs_jyXnF6ch7s_9dSs87fn8AZTDTn6v9N7Tch5JSuXGq4duj5fazOjpdskIlo8/s320/image-719729.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5618437081023623570" /></a></p>Well since china it's been a mad dash of work and a little play, the play involving a bit of Font, Portland and Cheddar.<br /><br /><br />So Font the boulders mecca, that is as maybe but in the sun with temps touching 30 friction is far from Bon, that said a good trip was had meeting up with loads of friends not seen for an age! <br />After a slow start with Lisa and me both thinking it way to crowded we found ourselves at isatis with Lisa making good progress on a steep line not her style at all but making it look good, I had a sneaky peek at a problem I had a look at a few years back. finding fellow sportiva athlete Barnaby under the line we set to making moves higher and higher until feeling brave i did the flick from under the roof to a sloper and then on to the top jug happy days, closely followed by Barns.<br /> <br /><br />Cheddar's been a game of two half's as in most times I have been it's been on the back of not sleeping the first time was jet lagged from china, and all tho did all the moves on a route called homegrown (8a+) I just kept on making silly mistakes so had to leave with no skin and nothing more to show for a days climbing. So the next time in the ched was a little disappointing when after warming up I sent the line with the minimum of fuss! Next up was Bristol weed of the same grade and lo and behold the same result working all night heading to the crag and walking away with shoulders hung low only to return a few days later and bang she's in the bag.<br /><br />Iv been feeling the pull of the sea for an age now and last weekend I made a start to the season of DWS ( the latest start for me in years ) so with a dash to Pembroke I had a quick look at Neal G's new line from last year an 8a down in lydstep. It was a grey and windy day and after a few splashdowns and the tide going out I had to call it a day with a sequence that I think will work and and a smile on my face that it will go and iv taken my first splashdown of the year sweet, can't wait till I can make it down there again to get back in the sea. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0QhMau1RtkN1aCGF5ZuwC1XKfykMg9OQiZgnwp1vnUA8amFV8JlVoEZUC7E1eeg70Zo0NxRTU3uuQ4Ofm3rqH0TMXGU4Tcjwt5cPPYgQb00uLPUtA-d0vIxLN-pPiogBp23touW1va6g/s1600/IMG_0737.jpeg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0QhMau1RtkN1aCGF5ZuwC1XKfykMg9OQiZgnwp1vnUA8amFV8JlVoEZUC7E1eeg70Zo0NxRTU3uuQ4Ofm3rqH0TMXGU4Tcjwt5cPPYgQb00uLPUtA-d0vIxLN-pPiogBp23touW1va6g/s400/IMG_0737.jpeg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5618553893333957602" /></a><br /><br />On top of this iv been working loads building Walls north and south, a bit of visual bliss party prettification and setting at climbing Walls around the uk. I am at the moment sat in the work van driving back from Durham a drive iv done twice in the last week and a half ! <br />But on the good side iv got a weekend off in Cornwall to chill out party and have a good time with friends, it don't get better than that.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-85604311889597558852011-05-09T04:33:00.001-07:002011-05-09T04:33:40.521-07:00China<div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span>Well on arriving at Getu river southwest china two days of travel in the bag, Bristol-London then flight one heathrow - Beijing 10 hours then three or so hours to change plane followed by a three hour flight to Guiyang then a taxi to hotel in the city. Day two picked up by a driver then a 7 hour drive into the middle of know where, that just so happens to be not only beautiful but also where the arch of winners is! </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span>So on arriving Erwan our host from Petzl thinks the best thing to do is go look at the crag this involves a little walk, a river crossing helping the motorbikes on and off the small boat then a small set of steps (1477 steps)up into the cave. And what a cave well more of a arch than cave 100 M across 300 M long and 80M high at it's lowest point! With a head wall and wings covered in tufa.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><object type="apple/mailattachment" downloaded="0" dispinline="1" isforprinting="0" height="110" width="110" filesize="4517724" contenttype="public.jpeg" preferredfilename="photo 1.JPG" id="965A7E40-CDC9-4917-93F9-DB4EA34A0052" messageid="577" style="padding-top: 10px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 10px; padding-left: 0px; "></object></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span>So the brief, with a supply of two thousand bolts, a team of climbers from all over the world manly france Spain and England, bolt as many routes as you can. Right then mission on.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span>With accomidtion sorted and the food menu worked out I.e two weeks of rice and noodles with spice and random stuff put in to make it yummy, we set to</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><object type="apple/mailattachment" downloaded="0" dispinline="1" isforprinting="0" height="110" width="110" filesize="3504808" contenttype="public.jpeg" preferredfilename="photo 2.JPG" id="CDC568CA-A978-47B4-8972-D7B060CD6B54" messageid="577" style="padding-top: 10px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 10px; padding-left: 0px; "></object></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span>to get our eyes in we had a climbing day ( a few routes were put up in October ) to see what we were up against, in the arch it was a stiff learning curve as the routes were totally nails and so hard to onsight as the rock is smooth and all looks the same! But a few new lines stood out to andy and me some easier routes just out side the main cave so we set to bolting five lines over the next few days most in the mid 6 grade. </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><object type="apple/mailattachment" downloaded="0" dispinline="1" isforprinting="0" height="110" width="110" filesize="3404430" contenttype="public.jpeg" preferredfilename="photo 3.JPG" id="644FECB2-0274-456A-8BAE-9DF04DC1E272" messageid="577" style="padding-top: 10px; padding-right: 0px; padding-bottom: 10px; padding-left: 0px; "></object></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span>with this done we went for a wonder to have a look at the rest of the valley finding with two of the French boys a nice crag that ended up being called fish crag because there is a painting of a fish at the bottom of the cliff! </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span>As we could get round the tp of this cliff be a little track in the il side things moved along a little swifter as we could bolt top down instead of bottom up, much faster.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span>Between the four of us we then had the crag set on four or so days with 15 routes from 6c to 8a not bad I thought.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span>after this the weather tok a turn for the worse and tho not proper rain we had a fine drizzle so Andy and I hung up our drill did a little climbing and ran for Beijing to be tourist's for a day or so.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span>meanwhile the rest of the team were going big in the cave with dani bol</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span>Ting an 8 pitch monster thru the middle that will be in the mid to high 8s to climb Toni putting a five pitch route at 7c+ on the left and deago bolting the crag classic a five pitch 7b on the right.</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span>Also many new routes put up in and out of the cave leaving the valley with about 250 new pitches from 5 to 9 not a bad job boys good work !</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><br></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "><span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium; "></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); font-size: medium;"></span><br></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-63441257965483676402011-03-17T16:39:00.001-07:002011-03-17T16:39:58.705-07:00Comps and Walls<p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGr9ycdwU8bPf9WuybSqOilYWhy-ACM9HlHA23l4GecI2gb9pfmfnmbMt-m__KZvqvLD0JIAahfsqwGqiaPs18E3JCrAyxhah00pkpBt45ZWCFcC9Zm-q_EWhapAzUc_WRsarRkLBkOsQ/s1600/image-798706.jpeg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGr9ycdwU8bPf9WuybSqOilYWhy-ACM9HlHA23l4GecI2gb9pfmfnmbMt-m__KZvqvLD0JIAahfsqwGqiaPs18E3JCrAyxhah00pkpBt45ZWCFcC9Zm-q_EWhapAzUc_WRsarRkLBkOsQ/s320/image-798706.jpeg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5585197803495605282" /></a></p>Comps and climbing, well the indoor season for me is very nearly at an end, it's been a bizy few weeks starting with the final round of the climbing academy, well not getting off to a good start falling off an easy problem spent the rest of the of the sesh playing catch up! Well with a good try I missed out on the final by two points but came second overall for the league. One down two to go the next being at the cloning works Sheffield for there yearly comp the CWIF and with an international field was thinking a tough tour and low points was to be my day but low and behold I did quite well climbing the tecky routes with a little bit of stile. <br>So from a field of 200 men I came 24th not bad, I'm well happy with that!<br> <p>Well now to the north and a fun week building a small climbing wall in a leisure centre, wit a strong team a big bag of tools and Longy at the helm I think we did it again and made a beautiful thing.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-22514451810787667502011-02-16T08:13:00.000-08:002011-02-16T10:09:06.742-08:00Jan / Feb<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq8ERnlObV7bWcdkbwMYOKB8-k4G8gIkL7e7FjFQPgBvNw454S5zUdLQzIjngZAM8vxocsmbsm-Lyw6acilC1qhUBo2CjM2-m3qIygJPR7o8Hxf_FCnv3TzuQoti15rNSAB-bJV4MNBK4/s1600/IMG_2848.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq8ERnlObV7bWcdkbwMYOKB8-k4G8gIkL7e7FjFQPgBvNw454S5zUdLQzIjngZAM8vxocsmbsm-Lyw6acilC1qhUBo2CjM2-m3qIygJPR7o8Hxf_FCnv3TzuQoti15rNSAB-bJV4MNBK4/s400/IMG_2848.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574346883260802482" /></a><br />tools of the trade<br /><br />Well it's time to go back to school, when I say school I mean that if you think not climbing routes for four months over the winter then rocking up to one of the biggest caves in Spain with only a few weeks training and expecting to do anything it's lesson one O one.<br />But first let's go back a week and a bit and talk of Font, a quick weekend trip with some of the Bristol crew. Leaving on Friday eve and headed to the tunnel, iv not had the pleasure of the tunnel before and what a joy 30 mins of standing around and bingo France, So from hear we drove on to the formula one just outside font getting there late and wedging five into a three person room! <br />The one thing about going with others is they tend to be a lot more on it that me, like for me the day hasn't started in font till at least a coffee and cake has been had In a nice French cafe. Still a gas station coffee and to the climbing, I think on that note all I can say was it was cold and I flapped around like a punter thinking I need to be in the Spanish sun doing routes and getting pumped out of my mind.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCN3VIzTGcxDMUoj-zms5T_UMKjygA8W2pH_OFxFdTvgaiJ-xgwOF5zlitxbgAp8t7aEtLyeDcOy3TvqQaqnu4gP0uddGeQA0tnUwmEJI-5UwVGuxoYgl6NFkBWW15dtN1ofSwwTqPi00/s1600/IMG_2880.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCN3VIzTGcxDMUoj-zms5T_UMKjygA8W2pH_OFxFdTvgaiJ-xgwOF5zlitxbgAp8t7aEtLyeDcOy3TvqQaqnu4gP0uddGeQA0tnUwmEJI-5UwVGuxoYgl6NFkBWW15dtN1ofSwwTqPi00/s400/IMG_2880.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574346892010549026" /></a><br /> the cave, santa Linya<br /><br /><br />So on to the afor mentioned Spanish sun and the cave! Santa linya, on touching the ground after warming up doing pitch one of airline with said pump I was struck by the thought that fuck that hurts the arms and I might of lost a bit of fitness over the winter so on sighting might be the order of the day on the short but steep routes of the cave can't be that hard steep = jugs surly, so off I went scrabbling my way up 7b+s wile all around others were trying 8c's and that was just the girls!<br />So day one over and a hand-full of sevens I got to thinking I might be better off just bolt to bolting things working them for redpointing from hear on in and so in this method a few 8's went nicely in the pocket as well.<br />Day five! And with the rain not coming on day four as forcast that turned into a climbing day instead of rest I was feeling a bit under gunned and in that manner hit the wall of can't pull any more at this grade falling from the last hard move on a 8a+ so after one go I had the rest of the day off thinking day six (my last day in Spain) was going to be a book reading chill day! <br />Well with Alex having a go on his proj I found myself back in the cave on belay mission but as I s always the way with these things I thought I might have a bit left and lo and behold I did on sighting a 7b,a 7c and the hardest of the day sharmers warm up 7b+ second go but to my defence it's nails hard to read and was wet and everybody comes of the route!<br />So now on the way home sat on the plane drinking coffee and thinking where next?<br /> <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6lbW0WSvrITcEA7WfccN0F2xovNYJgOPIVdfbCOHEEjsWgU1zxQrVtP3p8Dq_vKNwvvtsXlrnsWOBQdnuKGSRL5a1KilL1uKZwNbeLXP9R1qM1eifs6AXodoW4XeSbfuxMnIaHpXJpVk/s1600/IMG_2861.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6lbW0WSvrITcEA7WfccN0F2xovNYJgOPIVdfbCOHEEjsWgU1zxQrVtP3p8Dq_vKNwvvtsXlrnsWOBQdnuKGSRL5a1KilL1uKZwNbeLXP9R1qM1eifs6AXodoW4XeSbfuxMnIaHpXJpVk/s400/IMG_2861.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574346885433567874" /></a><br />readpointing irac attack 8a+Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-53331834951898552732011-01-25T11:48:00.000-08:002011-01-25T12:03:15.836-08:00bbs'sto calll it training would be overstating it some what i think, I think to call it training i think you have to have some structure planning and goals, i had one of these a goal the BBC's in London town The british bouldering championship is where the top British boulders go to have at a hard set of blocks.<br />so back to my goal witch was to come in the results at about mid field so with 52 competing coming around the 25th place is where i was aiming, so after climbing witch i was very happy with the way i was climbing relaxed and feeling strong i came 20th iv got to be happy with that.<br />so now what ? well iv just entered the CWIF in Sheffield so theres another goal to aim for just need to get round to doing the other two bits structure and planning, till i get round to that (iv never managed it yet) i think ill go have a play at the wall, knowing me ill drink coffee and talk moe than climb but if im in the right place i might get strong by watching others!Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-91815367448387813832011-01-07T03:46:00.000-08:002011-01-07T04:00:57.954-08:002011 jan<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHyRgu0WaYSMv6D0cPdnTzR9VZEAjgbG8k-bYkiIbH_NjdJGKfiq5zBEbnELMk5C5p08SeQOU7TSHCpZd7iIIAkLROvywgG1zfa9GeXUC-lGZEvAyXD3-SxQtZV1za4bHRGzKFJvg0Cmc/s1600/IMG_2722.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHyRgu0WaYSMv6D0cPdnTzR9VZEAjgbG8k-bYkiIbH_NjdJGKfiq5zBEbnELMk5C5p08SeQOU7TSHCpZd7iIIAkLROvywgG1zfa9GeXUC-lGZEvAyXD3-SxQtZV1za4bHRGzKFJvg0Cmc/s400/IMG_2722.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5559410129843354322" /></a><br /><br />well hear she is A new year , What shall she bring, hopefully a good summer to Finnish off my projects the main one being climbing all the deep water 8's in the uk so come on people step up get some new lines done to make my life harder go on i challenge you.<br />but that Will be in the summer its a bit cold the now for getting in the sea! till then bouldering and sport will have to to but i get ahead of myself work needs to be done evan before that so im off now to take some lights and borbbles down the last remains of 2010 and the year gone by, It was a good one.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-42782544379784497822010-10-12T07:58:00.001-07:002010-10-12T07:58:09.622-07:00Back in the saddle<div><span>Well after three weeks in rodellar it was time to head home, with arms failing to do there stuff we decided to give ourselves an extra day to drive home. Ending the trip after 52 days away not a bad way to spend the summer.</span><br><span>The only problem with this is now I'm balls deep in Christmas decorations putting them up for he next month all around the country from Southampton to Glasgow.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.296875); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.230469); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.230469); "> <br><span><img src="cid:3B2BF520-3EFC-4071-988F-CA971C1F5248/photo.JPG" id="3B2BF520-3EFC-4071-988F-CA971C1F5248/photo.JPG" width="654" style="padding-top: 0px; padding-right: 1px; padding-bottom: 1px; padding-left: 0px; "></span></span></div><div><span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.226562); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.226562);">I did manage tho to get a few hours off to go to the opening round of the Climbing Academy's first round for there winter boulder league, tho to manage this I did have to drive on Friday to peterbourgh work most of the night get up early then drive back to Bristol to start climbing at 12!</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium; -webkit-tap-highlight-color: rgba(26, 26, 26, 0.292969); -webkit-composition-fill-color: rgba(175, 192, 227, 0.226562); -webkit-composition-frame-color: rgba(77, 128, 180, 0.226562);">It was at this point that I found out that wile I'm quite fit and can pull V5 moves after 30 meters of climbing this is my limit and can only do V5 off the deck as well I think some boulder training is in need!!</span><br></div><div></div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-44455749664440772002010-09-22T03:33:00.000-07:002010-09-22T03:32:30.174-07:00Shoes<p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh82nmCoVgyp02wLpi3N7cx-R8-PGL0hb8PItLokGJFkHA9VKbgknur3ufdRfOTY5mrttzcCMwiCysCabCWby4XeX9DNlAwuoCc7WsY4c5j1-1SehFDuK_nSQRobCzI5X4iEHByCJqD0_E/s1600/photo-750180.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh82nmCoVgyp02wLpi3N7cx-R8-PGL0hb8PItLokGJFkHA9VKbgknur3ufdRfOTY5mrttzcCMwiCysCabCWby4XeX9DNlAwuoCc7WsY4c5j1-1SehFDuK_nSQRobCzI5X4iEHByCJqD0_E/s320/photo-750180.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5519683883635604930" /></a></p>I think iv spoken of this before at some time in this blog! But I must rave and rant about the c limbing shoe that is the speedster from sportiva, when I first got a hold of this shoe I had a quick play and thought that this is a shoe that has a narrow field of play ie steep.<br>Well hear I am in the land of the steep and tufa Rodellar and I must say. That I was bob on with my summery the way the speedster makes you use your feet difrantly with the funky Rand turns your feet into little claws you push pull and hook your way up climbs with them I can only offer as everdence of this in my climbing of resant times, looking back though my <a href="http://8a.nu">8a.nu</a> score card all my hardest climbs have been done in the speedster, from red pointing 8b to on sighting 8a's the speedster has come up trumps.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-1736678805467909262010-09-14T04:34:00.000-07:002010-09-14T04:48:59.279-07:00last leggwell hear we are on the last leg of the trip Rodellar, <br />after looking at a crag on the way hear the boys and girls thought fuck it might just as well get on it at up and come to the crag of crags. we got hear in the dark so armed witha torch we went to find a spot in the campsite then got our heads down for the night.<br />so an lazy morn and a few coffees we headed you the valley the only thing on mikes and mine mind was getting back on les chacals an 8b i looked at last year but went away with the route unclimbed so i went up to get the draws in and i was in for a shock it was so much harder than remember there's no way i can get up this!<br />so as a look i went for a point and as i expected came up short, falling off the mid crux so working it more i then headed to the top.<br />mike was in the same place as me with the crux stopping him as well so after a rest and waiting for the sun to go behind the hill i pulled back on, by some luck of some sort i got though the crux into the first rest this might be game on last year iwas falling just one move short of a jug can i make it this time. well the rest is history i got to the move and i said to myself don't PANIC slow down and do it right and the jug was in my grasp get in a few more moves and glory and a big jump off from the chains.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-38089692362355152512010-09-11T03:53:00.000-07:002010-09-14T04:33:24.254-07:00Tres pontsTres ponts been hear just over a week, I just so love this crag short walk in and a nice relaxing feel always a few folk around to watch climb and get the numbers on the harder routes also saw daila send the crag 8b in fine stile it looked like she was just warming up the girl can crush, for me tho some on sighting in the 7 grade and pointing the 8's one of witch An 8a that took me three days to point I later found out that a hold has broken and in the new topo it now gets 8a+ so feel a bit better about it taking so long to send. <br />From hear With mike and T dog coming down from france and mike showing me the way I stepped up the game with flashing another 8a mite modens, getting the next one second point Rauxa, and first redpoint of a 8a+ Carbassa pel tap de bassa<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT5jrjxhV_qlkD_T1tMoJRTb_YpQfNzchjrAVIxjDE3zzIzH0D8V9WYteBVxRPh6tfrRecI4oygVWRkn3EV_dr70W9uT-W9j63CM3pQPG-rBHMqGDvUNoWa_W1799cm6Q0Fzmwak8sjF0/s1600/P1000102.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT5jrjxhV_qlkD_T1tMoJRTb_YpQfNzchjrAVIxjDE3zzIzH0D8V9WYteBVxRPh6tfrRecI4oygVWRkn3EV_dr70W9uT-W9j63CM3pQPG-rBHMqGDvUNoWa_W1799cm6Q0Fzmwak8sjF0/s400/P1000102.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5516730259470776338" /></a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-32330526034605287142010-08-26T06:40:00.000-07:002010-08-26T06:45:52.969-07:00SpainHome at last, well when I say home I mean Spain. Lisa and me after dropping Ed off at the airport drove down yesterday and now we are at Montgrony and sat at the restaurant after a nice morning's climbing where Lisa found a project for her to ork and send.<br />Since the last time I checked in we first went to bus les baronies and climbed around there after a morning taking a wonder around the local morning market, at baume Rousse I warmed up and then got the draws in a route I had seen last time I was down this way, the route Les Secrets de Regine 8a felt ok with a hard move at the start and finish went ok on the third point after falling from the top move on the second burn.<br /><br />From hear after Steve sent his second ever 8a on his fourth point a sterling effort, we headed to St Leger where after a a few days of sweating and saying it far to hot so many times I lost count ( iv never sweated from inside my ear before) we have as I said come to spain.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-56739356079983927562010-08-17T02:14:00.000-07:002010-08-17T02:16:14.491-07:00Week oneWith a nice but quite long drive down thru France we arrived at Ceuse, with camp set and a few beers looking at the crag from the safety of the campsite we got t planning the climbing the following day.<br />Walking up the hill the next day in the full sun was quite fun but ok at a slow pace, climbing on the other hand although the best ever was quite hard work falling off a 7b+ something that's not happened for quite some time! I think the last few weeks plus the drive has taken a bit more out of me than I think.<br />Another day on followed by a rest day and it all starts to come together feeling like I can climb recover on good holds and get stuff done. Having been hear a week I think it's time to move on try out new crags and get projects done so heading west before turning south yet again ! <br />IMG_2065.JPGAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-52768324437889036382010-08-17T01:58:00.000-07:002010-08-20T03:52:43.347-07:00Week one<p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJo7e9NuZOWZw3Y5JxdqX74_IrITQm94eOHSD-qudd-nxxfKK5z252EUFf9MtcedCiVTIz34PU-jVn0QxI3Wak_-o9OpXdGJR8M1UysEL0jKNs7obwVUU2UpelBZtcrKZRjId6Lgv5Hy0/s1600/IMG_2065-763352.JPG"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJo7e9NuZOWZw3Y5JxdqX74_IrITQm94eOHSD-qudd-nxxfKK5z252EUFf9MtcedCiVTIz34PU-jVn0QxI3Wak_-o9OpXdGJR8M1UysEL0jKNs7obwVUU2UpelBZtcrKZRjId6Lgv5Hy0/s320/IMG_2065-763352.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5507443285224032706" /></a></p>Week one<br>With a nice but quite long drive down thru France we arrived at Ceuse, with camp set and a few beers looking at the crag from the safety of the campsite we got t planning the climbing the following day.<br>Walking up the hill the next day in the full sun was quite fun but ok at a slow pace, climbing on the other hand although the best ever was quite hard work falling off a 7b+ something that's not happened for quite some time! I think the last few weeks plus the drive has taken a bit more out of me than I think.<br>Another day on followed by a rest day and it all starts to come together feeling like I can climb recover on good holds and get stuff done. Having been hear a week I think it's time to move on try out new crags and get projects done so heading west before turning south yet again !Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-18004588930169795302010-08-06T10:17:00.000-07:002010-08-06T12:19:53.644-07:00The List<p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4rnbQm0l45A9S-aEOkZHTIiolv0YNHDIy89RftJv0hza7d8gNSHfjYE1-lhF9qx96q2gcqdEsGeacKxiiuEzyCjkfneekum1y2Fa0og6zYWzrqin6UzQWWGiBLhwSSWgfzWM6oBmcvrA/s1600/ZIRY-793645.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4rnbQm0l45A9S-aEOkZHTIiolv0YNHDIy89RftJv0hza7d8gNSHfjYE1-lhF9qx96q2gcqdEsGeacKxiiuEzyCjkfneekum1y2Fa0og6zYWzrqin6UzQWWGiBLhwSSWgfzWM6oBmcvrA/s320/ZIRY-793645.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5502378785243149266" /></a></p><p class="mobile-photo"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6iichSWvjEs4L6K9LTbnBcEDlwoOjMhhMiuqIq2ycfy3a8MLG_x0l-GTI1Benwkj9SAQ5VBCvxQSD4CTMYTyorunQskMfwHBOdWuWFxTBd-xh6Jx6_Z4EzpMxrpJ_rBvXJCnUobvaKn8/s1600/JZFB-795897.jpg"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6iichSWvjEs4L6K9LTbnBcEDlwoOjMhhMiuqIq2ycfy3a8MLG_x0l-GTI1Benwkj9SAQ5VBCvxQSD4CTMYTyorunQskMfwHBOdWuWFxTBd-xh6Jx6_Z4EzpMxrpJ_rBvXJCnUobvaKn8/s320/JZFB-795897.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5502378796325476546" /></a></p>Adrenachrome, Lulworth 8a<br>Pump up the beast, lulworth 8a <br>Windowchrome, Lulworth 8a+<br>Christine, long quarry point 8a<br>Cutlass, Berry head 8a+<br>Balance of Power, Portland 8a<br>San simeon, pembroke 8a<br>The Wizard, pembroke 8a<br>Jaws, pembroke 8a/7c+<br>heal hook look, north wales 8a<p>This is I think the list of 8a and above DWS's in the uk, up until recently having done a few of them I thought would it be possible to get them all done?<br>So the mission started but where to start, I'd done three of the ten one being a harder version of Adrenachrome also on the list, But a strong team and fair weather saw me headed to pembroke,a good as place to start as any!<br>So jaws it was to be then and it was in the best condition I'd ever seen it, I thought I'd chalk it up from a rope then have at. Two goes later standing on the top of the route thinking well there's four of the ten done I might just manage to do this challenge I set myself, so off to bed to mull over the day and hope for good weather and the wizard.<br>Well rain the next day put pay to the wizard so with a quick weather check Devon and Chistine was calling, so five hours later and a small sleep we went to long quarry point.<br>I'd tried the line before ground up so keeping with theme Bob and me took it in turns to have a play, a few splashdowns later I got to thinking that some chalk on the holds might help so down I went with brush and chalk to have a look! Well from a rope it made no sense as the roof is so 3D, so I slapped some chalk on things that might be holds and came back out to continue playing from the bottom up. So again with many splashdowns but making progress each time I finally made the crux slap followed but a flick to a jug and glory.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-45804310277016841242010-07-18T15:12:00.001-07:002010-07-18T15:12:02.667-07:00The Azores movie<a href="http://vimeo.com/13281696">http://vimeo.com/13281696</a><br>Sent from my iPadAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-51099425777584438122010-07-15T13:13:00.000-07:002010-07-15T13:23:54.110-07:00New times aheadWell it seams that I'm not very good at keeping things up to date so iv come up with a plan, I'm going to do a monthly update this gives me a nice deadline with witch to keep things moving along.<br /> Im going to start as from now so I'll give you a brief overview of what iv been up to up to this date in time, since I last posted iv been to the Azores looking for new DWS ( I'll post a vid) as always been working a bit but had a week off chill last week and headed to pembroke for a bit of solo fun, I got on Jaws an 8a first put up by Timmy Emmett iv wanted to do this route for so long and it was supper cool to finally get it done. From hear a day of rain saw us headed south for a nother route that's been on the list for I wile Christine down at long quarry point at Ansteys in Devon,Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2457745137218291052.post-14728948347294218762010-03-30T05:58:00.000-07:002010-03-30T06:56:31.694-07:00Spain and SkymastersWell with the send of Tuppance in the bag i packed my bags and headed to spain to get some Spanish sun! Dave and myself landed in sunny Mercia and drove up to the Blanca and wildside getting there in the dark finding a dos spot we parked up and got to making dinner and bedding down for the night thinking that the stars re out lets try out my new sleeping bag under said stars, well a few hours later and putting the tent up in the middle of the night in the rain things were not looking good!<br />So a lazy morn and climbing in the rain on a damp and cold wildside we decided to head back south chorro hear we come. five hours of driving later and again finding a dos spot on the top of a mountain and cooking dinner in the dark we settled down to sleep and not learning from the first night i slept out under the stars, dave not risking it and opting for the tent.A dry night saw us having coffee the next morn with the best view but shortly after we found the nice looking but very very wet crag of loca.<br />this pattern followed for the next few days moving around finding some nice crags but climbing the dry rock ie stuff in the sun was trashing our skin as was to hot and out of the sun it was wet.<br />we found ourselves passing thru chorro stopping to do afew routes then going up to Displomlandia and finding a route i try'd a few years ago but failed on so again went looking for a nice dos spot and found it in the form of an Olive grove, we bedded down hear fingers crossed for good red pointing the next day. So Mar de Ortigas 8a i went up working the moves and warming up all good so far, i came down jumped around a bit to stay warmed up and ten miutes later tyed on to have a go, a further five minutes later i was at the top thinking why dident i do that last time its not so bad! so coming down i thought why not try the 8a+ to the right iv not done two 8's in a day before so moved the draws over and started working the moves on that. So two redpoints later and first falling off a big move near the top and the last move with arms feeling spent i was close to calling it a day when dave said just try one more time so a coffee in town and a nice rest saw me not only sending it but in a fine style.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhar0k0ieCsq569tuVoPnyB9ah3ow8JTTcRN4qNaXHkOMGD-p_By5uBUuxNLLuUqgXfq4TWtLjmJbkMvIrW0RnOSZpLVELhDFevo5DxpGZXitJ2wpt4PmKOFQnwg-qB49grNqiU_zdwPQ/s1600/IMG_0832.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhar0k0ieCsq569tuVoPnyB9ah3ow8JTTcRN4qNaXHkOMGD-p_By5uBUuxNLLuUqgXfq4TWtLjmJbkMvIrW0RnOSZpLVELhDFevo5DxpGZXitJ2wpt4PmKOFQnwg-qB49grNqiU_zdwPQ/s400/IMG_0832.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454423429851760210" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Fai-ntnd38yc1hTKMud_bfb9C6zdq0U33_2W2muEuDTIYGxLfNdAjg2Zgf7N9WsNAlrAkjTjuPo4Fxt_L4djZ0oKB61SWPDgd_bqVs9Cn15nKo3518MIORoHzFMyKUOnlvr6OzNIPps/s1600/IMG_0840.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Fai-ntnd38yc1hTKMud_bfb9C6zdq0U33_2W2muEuDTIYGxLfNdAjg2Zgf7N9WsNAlrAkjTjuPo4Fxt_L4djZ0oKB61SWPDgd_bqVs9Cn15nKo3518MIORoHzFMyKUOnlvr6OzNIPps/s400/IMG_0840.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454423420343653778" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-PtdKduSJV8J14ipCPNqQoMXFFCoRe2e6zcvGw3bQmOppA7uz-iR7cRRnrkgqDFM2CjNtvHMoeYrR5wKpgQ_vui6eRC0CjLfLzbs9Z8eYK-w9c1O2uD6rJ_bfUNAhw0w9g3mjPckZp8E/s1600/IMG_0855.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-PtdKduSJV8J14ipCPNqQoMXFFCoRe2e6zcvGw3bQmOppA7uz-iR7cRRnrkgqDFM2CjNtvHMoeYrR5wKpgQ_vui6eRC0CjLfLzbs9Z8eYK-w9c1O2uD6rJ_bfUNAhw0w9g3mjPckZp8E/s400/IMG_0855.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454423414963021602" /></a><br /><br />So back home a few days work first route setting in dublin then building a climbing wall closer to home, also a few comps first CWIF at the climbing works a wicked boulder comp, and then Skymasters at the outdoors show at the NEC.<br />now getting the van ready for another trip down to spain to get amongest the Spanish boulders of Allbracin happy days...<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw5xCm84PHDzaauZUDuUyL5foQgrnsY7U4hmi1GEJFVOGmO_N9raMqf6NiPmVt38XGSik1IJMs34Zj0bzxcxCSlMXS38kP75MD13vNTkdOC-wYd58xyZ4DD3hj-dyeqs8lVlAyt5vW9nk/s1600/IMG_0880.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw5xCm84PHDzaauZUDuUyL5foQgrnsY7U4hmi1GEJFVOGmO_N9raMqf6NiPmVt38XGSik1IJMs34Zj0bzxcxCSlMXS38kP75MD13vNTkdOC-wYd58xyZ4DD3hj-dyeqs8lVlAyt5vW9nk/s400/IMG_0880.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454423407568108242" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDS74dcBsfGswfFYs3JAXzuYatFCzNZIRZRrRvw2WLHRMHwO1MBoPbv9v5FeK2X4t97iNpni0WXvzrMSuvN5YWAWswVAI7mygESLyJWXr-t_cmz-69PdaU2bg4e53zn93nnI15gv5_4Kw/s1600/IMG_0933.JPG"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDS74dcBsfGswfFYs3JAXzuYatFCzNZIRZRrRvw2WLHRMHwO1MBoPbv9v5FeK2X4t97iNpni0WXvzrMSuvN5YWAWswVAI7mygESLyJWXr-t_cmz-69PdaU2bg4e53zn93nnI15gv5_4Kw/s400/IMG_0933.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454423404096597138" /></a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06883388885901680628noreply@blogger.com0