Wednesday, 21 March 2012


As I'm sure some of you who know me might of heard me utter in the past " well I wasn't expecting that" And again I bring this out of the bag yet again.

Down at ansteys cove with a Bristol and local team I did my usual warm up trav under the empire wall warming up the arms and fingers, it then set abut putting the draws in my project an 8b+ called Poppy a route iv wanted to climb for a few years.

Although the crag was dry and not in to bad a nic, on my first go up it took me quite a few try's to stick the crux move a funky foot compress pinch roll move to a shocking hold you have to kind of sidepull pinch, then your foot gos on and a flick sees you at an ok pinch to clip from. So not overly inspired I came back to the floor to rest ready for a redpoint attempt.

So pulling on it started all ok you start up cider soak for two clips then break left, up to this it was all flow and chill then nerves set in and my climbing went to shit getting holds wrong my healhook not sat properly so on and such forth. thinking this was a throwaway go I kept on going so I could have another look at the crux move thinking I'd never get up on the roll to fiddle the sidepull into my grasp. So now time for my catchphrase! not caring or trying overly much taking the self imposed pressure out of the equation I found not only the hold but found it useable with a foot move I was on the pinch and clipping, game on can I do this ? With only five moves to the chains I took a breath and went for it, move one a missive flick to an undercut this move I find hard when working it but the power was flowing and it felt easy next up is a foot shuffle clip and a another big move to a crimp followed by bump to a pocket, feet again, other hand to the crimp foot up and jump



my first 8b+ well happy, that was yesterday I was down there again today steped left and nearly did another one but I think a rest day is in order then maybe just maybe.


Thursday, 8 March 2012


Progress is on the cards, iv put aside that silly work thing again and been getting out and about with a focus on ansteys in Devon on a route iv wanted to to for a wile now so iv slapped myself around the face and told myself to pull my finger out and get it done. Easily said but for this one iv got to but effort in I.e if got to train and get better at this climbing thing something iv not really done before.

Up till now all the routes iv done iv done quickly with out really trying and this route (poppy) has got a move I can only just do from the hang so iv got to get stronger so I can get to it fresh, this feeling is slowly coming along it feels better every time I go down and have a play.

More motivation as if I need it is pip as she is getting more mobile around crags and danger I now have two options one is to take her for a morning walk , or go climbing so she can get a walk that way. Easy to work that one out me thinks.

So what now, the next few weeks hold a little bit of the indoors in the shape of the CWIF followed by a trip to Madrid to set a comp out there, the pressure is on as well as the starting List has names like woods and Robinson in it ! I'll get back to on how it gos.